Paul Kitching opened 21212, his keenly waited for restaurant in Edinburgh last night. Set in a four storey, Georgian townhouse, the dining room looks on to the open kitchen where the chef and his eight-strong brigade assemble their sometimes startling dishes.

A Michelin star holder at Juniper, his former restaurant in Greater Manchester, Kitching looks set to cause a splash at the top end of Edinburgh’s restaurant market. Edinburgh’s other starry restaurants make bold, imaginative food but 21212 pushes the envelope a fair bit further.

I ate there last night (there’ll be a review in Metro next Wednesday) and it was one of the most unusual and interesting meals I’ve eaten. It’s not often that restaurants surprise you but 21212 does it with almost every dish. I have no idea if Edinburgh is ready for it but if you want to take your taste buds for a walk on the wild side then you know where to go.

The two Khublai Khan restaurants in Edinburgh and Glasgow are a completely different kettle of fish from Mr Kitching’s restaurant but the two 5pm members also offer an alternative dining experience. There can’t be too many other places that have roasted yak ribs on the menu or Mongolian warriors manning the hotplate.

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