Photo of
April 17, 2015

Monteiths is a boutique cocktail bar and restaurant in the heart

Nathalie McLay of Montheiths.
Nathalie McLay of Monteiths.

of Edinburgh’s Old Town. Just off the Royal Mile, it is discreetly tucked away at the end of an inviting, sparkling terrace. The interior is a neat blend of classic British design, hunting lodge chic and bold, modern flourishes.

Innovative cocktails

Since opening in 2007, the kitchen in Monteiths has come to the fore – although not at the expense of the bar’s innovative cocktail offer. Monteiths doesn’t set out its stall as a fine dining restaurant. It’s more informal than that but the dishes are all carefully considered, executed and presented.

Chef Brian McConnachie has just launched a new menu which showcases the kitchen’s clever use of the best, locally sourced ingredients. A good example might be the duck breast where the rich meat is balanced with rhubarb and a hazelnut granola.

Local ingredients

Well made drinks, handsome surroundings and beautifully cooked, local ingredients. It’s a formula that encourages guests to come for cocktails, stay for dinner and linger for drinks afterwards.

The 5pm Dining blog spoke to General Manager Nathalie McLay about working in Monteiths and her own culinary career.

Can you describe the style of food served at the restaurant?

NM: Modern British bistro with a twist.

Is there a most popular dish for your customers?

NM: It tends to change with the seasons but the locally sourced lobster from our new menu is very popular.

What got you into hospitality to begin with?

NM: My dad worked in hospitality so I suppose it’s in the blood – my brother is also a hotel manager! I really love the fact that I can create special occasions and memories for people.

Blackberry parfait with honeycomb.
Blackberry parfait with honeycomb.

Where did you start working?

NM: My dad started me as a dishwasher in a West End pub and my first front of house shift was when he ended up short of staff and threw me on the floor – I never looked back! After that I worked in hotels and bars for years before I started with the guys at Sygn (our sister bar. The WestRoom is also part of the same group.), that was seven years ago and I’ve loved every minute.

What do think has been the biggest change on Scotland’s restaurant scene in the last five years?

NM: The huge variety of restaurants and bars that have opened has had a massive impact. The standard has generally been very high and I think Edinburgh is a real foodies haven now.

You have a magic wand. What one thing would you change about Scotland’s food scene?

NM: A focus on locally sourced produce would be amazing – of course we need to import some ingredients but I think the focus should be about sourcing things from the local area.

What is your all time favourite dish?

NM: I love Vietnamese food – my mum is French-Vietnamese so I grew up with amazing international cooking.

Whole lemon sole, cockles, anchovy and parsley butter from Monteiths' new menu.
Whole lemon sole, cockles, anchovy and parsley butter from Monteiths’ new menu.

What do you like to eat on a night off?

NM: Fresh seafood – it’s so simple to cook quickly – I made a great lemon sole the other night, having seen it served on the new menu I wanted to try and cook it – I was pretty happy with the results.

Is there anything you couldn’t eat?

NM: Although I’m a definitive carnivore I don’t like the taste of lamb.

What has been the most exotic thing you have eaten?

NM: I ate a kangaroo steak once and only realised what it was once I’d taken my first bite.

Ketchup or Maldon sea salt?

NM: We’ve got an amazing harrissa ketchup on our bites menu but the butter I buy at the local market has Maldon sea salt in so I’m torn…

You can get anyone in the world to cook you a meal. Who will it be?

NM: Tom Kerridge – I love his style of food and he always seems like a great laugh on the TV.

Apart from your own establishment, where do you like to eat out?

NM: Timberyard is amazing – the food is out of this world and I love the Scandic interior. Dusit Thai is also high on my list.

What is the best thing about running a restaurant?

NM: I love the daily challenges – no day is ever the same but we’ve always got the chance to make someone’s special occasion memorable.

And the worst?

NM: Balancing home and work is always a challenge – but that’s the same in any job.

Duck breast with rhubarb and hazelnut granola.
Duck breast with rhubarb and hazelnut granola.

What’s been your worst restaurant disaster?

NM: It’s a tough one – we had a power cut on the busiest Saturday of the festival a few years ago… More recently, I bought a beautiful new crockery set for Christmas service and on Black Friday the shelf collapsed, smashing all the plates.

Who cooks at home?

NM: It would have to me – if I left my partner to do the cooking we’d live on takeaways and cereal!

You’re cooking a special meal for your partner. What’s cooking?

NM: If I was choosing it would be a tomato and mozzarella salad, but my partner prefers a steak.

What has been your most memorable meal?

NM: Visiting family in the South of France, twenty of us round a table outside sharing great food and wine in the sunshine.

Tell us your daftest customer complaint?

NM: I once served a gentleman who asked for Tanqueray Gin and he was very disappointed when it wasn’t green. I had to explain the bottle was coloured – bless him he was so embarrassed!