The Printing Press Bar & Kitchen launched in Edinburgh with a lavish party last night.
The George Street restaurant and bar has taken shape over the last few months in the George Hotel space which used to house Tempus. Open seven days a week for breakfast, lunch and dinner, it also has a late-night bar offering a comfort food menu until 1am.
The project has some high profile names behind it. The concept, design and menu were developed by Des McDonald, ex-Head chef at The Ivy in London and former CEO of Caprice Holdings. Fife-born Colin Fleming is the Head Chef for the new 180 seat restaurant and bar.
Scottish produce
Chef Fleming has been a part of the Scottish restaurant scene for over 17 years and has done time in The Road Hole restaurant at The Old Course Hotel in St Andrews; Restaurant Martin Wishart in Edinburgh and the Kailyard Restaurant by Nick Nairn in Dunblane.
As I mentioned, last night’s opening bash was well lubricated but it’s not the bourbon or even the Champagne speaking when I say that the Printing Press’s menu is a corker.
Modern British/Scottish is probably the most apt description, even if it is a bit of a catch-all. Local ingredients such as Borders beef, Anster cheese and Loch Fyne scallops are to the fore and they are used carefully and thoughtfully in dishes like the spatchcock grouse with braised and spiced red cabbage and brambles.
Even the humble potato scone get a makeover and makes an appearance as the base for hot smoked Loch Duart salmon. It is all paired with the wintry flavours of horseradish and fennel.
The 5pm Dining blog was at a preview dinner a couple of weeks back and the standard of the cooking was pretty serious. It doesn’t have the fastidious presentation or heavily worked ingredients of many Michelin starred restaurants. The food is simpler and more direct than that but it is clever and well judged. If they maintain those standards under normal operating conditions then I think The Printing Press could join Edinburgh’s merry but select band of destination restaurants.
‘We set out with a clear vision to create seasonal dishes that are bursting with flavour and reflective of the local produce found on Scotland’s doorstep,’ says Des. ‘We’ve achieved that goal by working with a variety of handpicked suppliers who meet our exacting standards.
‘Collaborating with The Printing Press team has taken me to some remarkable places including the Queensberry Estate at Drumlanrig Castle, which is home to the people behind Buccleuch Beef, just one of the highly reputable suppliers we are working with. Making use of the world-class quality of ingredients in Scotland is something we have rightfully championed.’
Professional service
Colin Fleming’s take on it is: ‘We have worked lovingly on each and every dish to craft food that showcases some of the very best Scottish produce. The menu is shaped by the seasons and by our ambition to create a distinctive food offering in Scotland’s capital.’
The elegant decor matches the cooking. The main dining room in particular has been given a complete makeover and manages to balance classic proportions and handsome cornicing with sleek modern design touches. The sharply-dressed, highly polished staff are a joy too. When you don’t see it all that often, you forget just how much professional service can bring to a meal.
As you may have surmised, this blog scribbler is impressed. It’s an ambitious plan which has been executed with style and verve. It also feels right for Edinburgh. We wish them every luck.