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January 28, 2016
Martin Miller's Gin: good as a G 'n' T with strawberries and crushed black pepper.
Martin Miller’s Gin: delightful served as a G ‘n’ T with strawberries and crushed black pepper.

The 5pm Dining blog has often covered the many wonderful Scottish gins available. Naturally, this doesn’t mean that we ignore those produced elsewhere. We recognise no boundaries when it comes to getting outside a decent snifter.

Earlier this week, we found ourselves in The Last Word Saloon in Edinburgh to meet the team behind Martin Miller’s Gin, a premium product which is distilled in England before being transported to Iceland. There, it is blended to strength using exceptionally pure water from a spring in Borganes.

Interestingly, there is a Scottish connection: the spirit is rectified in Angela, a venerable Scottish pot still which was made by John Dore and sons way back in 1898.

The idea for the gin first started when a certain Martin Miller was sat in a bar with three chums drinking a dreadful G ‘n’ T. You know the sort of thing: not enough ice; warm, flat tonic; browning slice of lemon; disappointment all round.

Martin Miller created his own gin

Despite having a background in antiques, hotels and publishing rather than distilling, the enterprising Mr Miller decided that he would create his own gin brand. So he did. Incidentally, the people involved also started the Fever-Tree Tonic brand but that’s a whole other story.

Mr Miller is no longer with us but his spirit lives on in more ways than one.

Ten botanicals

At the tasting earlier this week, the organisers had the brilliant idea of drafting in Ewan, a perfumer who works at Penhaligon’s.

Having trained in Grasse, the perfume capital of the world, Euan was able to give detailed explanations of how all ten botanicals used in Martin Millar’s Gin contributed to the aroma and thus the flavour of the spirit.

For example, angelica gives a floral note and nutmeg gives a dry spice as opposed to the sweeter spiciness derived from cinnamon. Coriander acts as a bridge between the clean, freshness of the citrus and the woodier notes of the juniper.

Miller’s Gin also uses cucumber; not as a flavour but as a desiccant. Apparently, it adds a certain tartness to the spirit.

The end result is a gin which is floral, hinting at sweet. There is plenty of crisp citrus there and it is very soft on the palate. You could drink it neat with no burn.

Perfect for Negroni

In addition to the 40% variety, there is also The Westbourne which is bottled at 45.2% ABV. It is rather weightier and spicier with a more pronounced juniper flavour – perfect for a Negroni.

Spring water from Iceland is key to creating Martin Miller's Gin.
Spring water from Iceland is key to creating Martin Miller’s Gin.

As well as enjoying Martin Miller’s Gin with strawberries, crushed black pepper and tonic – which we recommend – we also tried it in a cocktail called The Last Word.

As you might expect, The Last Word Saloon put their own spin on it using roto-vaps and all sorts of other cleverness that most of us are unlikely to attempt in the kitchen.

Happily, we also have the recipe for an easy-to-do-at-home version.

Almost a glow in the dark green, it is sour, sweet, refreshing and very more-ish.

The Last Word

Ingredients

45ml Martin Miller’s Gin

15ml Green Chartreuse

15ml Maraschino liqueur

15ml Fresh lime juice

Method

Add all ingredients together in a shaker filled with ice. Shake and then strain to a Martini glass.

A very posh Last Word cocktail with all sorts of added extras from The Last Word Saloon.
A very posh Last Word cocktail with all sorts of added extras from The Last Word Saloon.