Photo of
April 29, 2016

 

John Maltby: Head Chef at Acanthus.
John Maltby: Head Chef at Acanthus.

Edinburgh born and bred, John Maltby is Head Chef at Macdonald Holyrood Hotel where Acanthus restaurant has an AA Rosette.

Before leading the kitchen at Holyrood Road, John worked at many of Edinburgh’s notable hotels including the Sheraton Grand, The George Hotel and The Scotsman.

If John’s face seems familiar, it may be because he was a contestant on the seventh series of MasterChef: The Professionals which was broadcast two years ago.

You can book into Acanthus via 5pm Dining. We also have a Big Deal on a spa experience and afternoon tea at Macdonald Holyrood Hotel.

John highly recommends the afternoon tea as it features his Gran’s secret scone recipe. Adding a teaspoon of honey to the mix and using yoghurt rather than milk is the key to gorgeously light scones.

But don’t tell anyone as it’s a secret.

What got you into cooking to begin with?

JM: I always wanted to be a chef. I used to go down to my Great Gran’s house and make scones and flapjacks and brownies. From about the age of twelve or thirteen, that’s when I started wanting to be a chef. I was really into home economics at school. Certainly I was more interested in that than other subjects.

This is your first Head Chef position. Is it fun?

JM: I came from doing five years as Sous Chef at the George and then Sous Chef at the Sheraton for one year. The General Manager here put a lot of faith in me and gave me money to spend on the kitchen and also allowed me to bring my own people in. I can do the food I want and now, slowly, after ten months of hard work we can see the benefits in terms of more customers, good feedback and interest from the media and bloggers.

Can you describe the style of food served at the restaurant?

JM: It’s both modern and classic. I do use classic techniques but I also use modern equipment and techniques. There are espuma guns, water baths and dehydrators in my kitchen. I make hot jellies and so on. The kitchen world has evolved a lot recently. There is a place for classic French techniques but there is also a place for people like Heston who want to use new techniques and ingredients to take food to the next level.

Your new spring menu was launched recently. What are the best sellers?

JM: The scallops are flying out the door and so is the halibut along with the rhubarb and the chocolate tart. The duck is proving very popular as well.

Gressingham duck breast with orange crushed potatoes, cherries, Swiss chard and spiced jus.
Gressingham duck breast with orange crushed potatoes, cherries, Swiss chard and spiced jus.

Can you guess in advance which dishes will sell well?

JM: If you put scallops on any menu then people will buy them but you have to find the right setting, the right ingredients to go with the scallops.

I’m using Stornoway black pudding which, of course, is Scottish and Scottish Granny Smith apples. My scallops are Scottish. Acanthus is a Scottish restaurant and we try to use the best possible Scottish ingredients. Scotland has fantastic produce: berries, venison, fish. Our seafood, fish and game are the best in the world.

Sell your afternoon tea to us.

JM: My Gran’s scones are on the afternoon tea. People love them. The Manager loves them. The group Exec Chef loves them and wanted the recipe. I make them with yoghurt rather than milk which makes them lighter and I put some honey in as well.

Tell us about your time on MasterChef.

JM: It’s the hardest thing I’ve ever done in my life. You can’t prepare yourself for that pressure. There are TV cameras; Marcus Wareing is watching you; Monica Galetti is watching you; the sound guy is hovering over your head. It’s crazy. I did quite well, I just missed out on the quarter finals. I was gutted but thousands of people apply every year and only twenty get down and go on the TV each year.

That environment is crazy. I’d much rather have a crazy busy Saturday night service at Acanthus than that.

Is there any food you hated as a kid but love now?

JM: I used to hate broccoli but now I love it. I’ve got purple sprouting broccoli on my menu now with the chicken and it is amazing. Plus you used to get it boiled until it was black. A lot has changed in Scottish cooking since the days of mince, tatties and black broccoli.

What is your favourite ingredient to work with?

JM: Vanilla. I’m absolutely obsessed with the stuff. I’m probably the only chef who would say that but it is so versatile. I put it in purées. It goes great with butternut squash and I also do a celeriac and white chocolate purée with vanilla. That is fantastic with scallops. Vanilla lends itself well to fish like turbot or halibut. It makes great kohlrabi fondants. I love vanilla.

Wild halibut with caramelised celeriac purée, crab bon bon, spring greens, roasted artichokes and shellfish reduction.
Wild halibut with caramelised celeriac purée, crab bon bon, spring greens, roasted artichokes and shellfish reduction.

What do you like to eat on a night off?

JM: Takeaways. The takeaway is on speed dial unless my girlfriend asks me to make something and then I’ll do a lasagne or stir fry – something simple and hearty. On a Sunday, I love a roast. Leg of lamb or chicken with proper roast potatoes cooked in duck fat and cauliflower cheese.

What has been the most exotic thing you have eaten?

 ****JM: Alligator and wild boar. The boar was tough and very strong. The alligator was like fish crossed with chicken. I wouldn’t recommend it.

You can get anyone in the world to cook you a meal. Who will it be?

JM: Gordon Ramsay and Henrik Larsson. I’m a Celtic fan and Larsson was a hero when I was growing up. I think there would be some good banter between him and Ramsay.

What is the best thing about being a chef?

JM: Every day is a school day. No chefs knows everything. I have commis chefs who teach me stuff which they have picked up from doing stages elsewhere. You also learn from the ingredients that we can get now. I’ve got purple carrots on my table d’hote menu at the moment and it’s good to show the young chefs that you can get purple or white carrots these days.

And the worst?

JM: The work life balance is hard. Hotels are getting better at managing that. Some kitchens are doing four days on and three days off which makes it easier to see friends and family. It is getting hard to get good chefs these days and you have to treat them well to keep them.

Rhubarb cheesecake with poached rhubarb, rhubarb purée, rhubarb tart and crème fraîche sorbet.
Rhubarb cheesecake with poached rhubarb, rhubarb purée, rhubarb tart and crème fraîche sorbet.

What’s been your worst kitchen disaster?

JM: I remember being sixteen and a bit cocky. I was giving my sous chef a bit of lip and I had a knife in my hand. He told me to watch what I was doing with the knife and two minutes later I badly cut my finger with the knife and passed out. I came to on the floor. That taught me to pay attention and not give my sous chefs any cheek.

What is in your fridge at home?

JM: Bottles of Corona. Mostly just snack foods. I’m usually at work. I might go and do a food shop at night if I have a Sunday off and am planning a Sunday roast.

What has been your most memorable meal?

JM: I ate at Andrew Fairlie’s in Gleneagles. The food there blows your mind. What they do with the food is unbelievable and the service is so slick. I take my hat off to them.

Tell us your daftest customer complaint?

JM: I’ve had a guest ask for a milkshake with no milk. That stumped me. What did they want me to put in it?

Who would win in a fight, Heston Blumenthal or Gordon Ramsay?

JM: Ramsay because he is a nut job. I wouldn’t want to get in the ring with him. He looks proper hardcore.