Photo of
Jonathan Trew
May 6, 2016
Roasted rump of lamb with bell pepper puree, aubergine courgette, sweet potato, pesto and lamb jus.
Roasted rump of lamb with bell pepper purée, aubergine courgette, sweet potato, pesto and lamb jus.

The George Street Bar and Grill has just launched its spring/summer menu and the 5pm Dining blog sauntered along last night for a taster evening.

The restaurant was refurbished a little under three years ago and looks very smart in its palette of greys.

While an understated colour scheme works well as an interior, no-one wants to see it on their plate. We chatted to Executive Chef Andy McRobert about all the fresh new ingredients which are coming into season and on to menus.

‘At this time of year, there is a great opportunity to have really colourful plates of food,’ nods Andy. ‘Of course, flavour is the first concern but people do eat with their eyes to some degree. Plates that look bright and colourful make people go “Wow!”‘

Wild garlic

Recently, the arrival of wild garlic has been making Andy’s eyes light up.

‘We’re getting to the end of it now but, every April, I look forward to getting the wild garlic in. I love it as there’s so many things you can do with it. You can make it into a purée, wilt it down or use it as a garnish. You can also use their little white flowers. Dip them in tempura batter, ten seconds in the fryer and that’s you done. They are beautiful.’

Nature’s changing seasons have played a part in Andy’s life from a young age.

‘I’m from a farming background and was driving tractors from about the age of eleven. I would show cattle at the agricultural shows. I’m a farm boy at heart.’

Popular dishes

When not looking after the coos, a young Andy could be found baking and cooking at his aunt’s B&B. That early love of cooking has led to a career which has seen Andy work everywhere from the Marine Hotel in North Berwick to Arran and Jersey.

Fillet of sea bass with seafood linguine, crayfish, queenie scallops, capers, sun-dried tomatoes and soft herbs.
Fillet of sea bass with seafood linguine, crayfish, queenie scallops, capers, sun-dried tomatoes and soft herbs.

Comfortably settled in at the helm of the kitchens in the George Street Bar and Grill, Andy is enjoying diners’ reactions to the new menu. It’s early days but the seafood linguine is already shaping up as a very popular dish.

‘The sea bass linguine is flying out the door. The weather is getting that little bit warmer and it’s a nice light meal. It’s very simple but the capers, sun-dried tomatoes and butter give it a lot of flavour.’

This scribbler can see why the linguine is notching up a lot of fans. We would also put out a shout for the rich, luscious boudin noir.

Butter roasted boudin noir with mash potato, apple puree and a sweet mustard and red wine sauce.
Butter roasted boudin noir with mash potato, apple purée and a sweet mustard and red wine sauce.
Tian of crab with avocado puree, baby salad and crostini.
Tian of crab with avocado purée, baby salad and crostini.
Pan-fried fillet of sea trout with saffron mash, fennel, dill and Sea Buckthorn butter sauce.
Pan-fried fillet of sea trout with saffron mash, fennel, dill and Sea Buckthorn butter sauce.

The fresh, clean flavour of the sea trout happily stood up the aniseed flavours in the accompanying fennel.

Apple bavaroise with Thistly Cross cider jelly, apple sorbet and apple crisp.
Apple bavaroise with Thistly Cross cider jelly, apple sorbet and apple crisp.
Mojito Mess with rum jelly and mint crisp.
Mojito Mess with rum jelly and mint crisp.

A twist on the classic summer Eton Mess, this dish used muscavado meringues, rum jelly and crispy, dehydrated, sugar-frosted mint leaves with a citrus ice-cream. Eaten individually, the different components are fine. Put them all in one mouthful and it’s a great mix of sweet, sour, boozy, crunchy and chewy.