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September 8, 2009

Just come across a couple of American articles that I liked. First up is this Time Q+A with Frank Bruni, the man who has just stepped down after five years as restaurant critic of the New York Times. I really don’t envy his reviewing schedule: eating out six nights a week? That requires not only a huge amount of dedication but also deep-rooted issues with your sofa.

Still, I liked his theory that when he started reviewing, the economy was booming and everyone was eating sushi. Now that the economy is in the dumpster, everyone is filling up on fried chicken.

Rather more dry and almost academic is this LA Times piece about classic West Coast restaurant architecture. It drives home (sorry) just how car-centric Los Angeles is when architects are asked to design restaurants with curb appeal so that customers would be encouraged to park up.

It got me thinking about which restaurants in the Central Belt work well as eye candy. In Glasgow, I like the well-padded, luxury looks of the Hotel Du Vin at One Devonshire as well as the atmospheric, historic ambience of Two Fat Ladies at the Buttery. For something a little more off the wall, Guy Cowan’s Merchant City Place is a riot of often unexpected art while, for me, the Black Sparrow manages to be simultaneously louche and smart, rather like Nick Cave in a suit.

In Edinburgh, the snakeskin tables and gold leaf ceiling of Abstract always make me think of a pricey Vegas restaurant and I also like the bling of the restaurant at The Rutland and the theatrical swankiness of Rhubarb.

Which restaurants’ looks turn your head?