Fans of rubbish catchphrases will be delighted this evening as John Torode and Gregg Wallace launch a sixth series of Masterchef. The formula is repetitive, the cooking, at least in the early stages, is diabolical and, while Torode knows his onions, I have my doubts as to whether Wallace could tell his arugula from his elbow. Nontheless, like watching a traffic accident, there is something horribly compelling about the programme. My favourite part is the tasting where Wallace shovels something into his gob and then pulls a face not unlike that of Ben Stiller doing blue steel in Zoolander.