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March 25, 2010
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The bhut jolokia pepper: stings a bit

The world’s hottest chilli pepper is always a good story whether it is the Indian army using it to make tear gas or a restaurant claiming to make the world’s hottest curry.

However, good stories don’t necessarily equal good food. No-one eats the world’s hottest curry for fun or pleasure. So, it’s encouraging to see a new Indian restaurant in Edinburgh which seems to be relying on inventive cooking rather than gimmicks to bring in the customers.

The menu at Club India on Lothian Road is still being tweaked and revised but already it looks quite different from the familiar roll call of bhunas, dhansaks and madras curries.

Club India may find that there isn’t a market for their more adventurous creations and return to the usual list of Anglo-Indian staples but, for the time being anyway, the menu is packed with dishes like the sogati, marinated halibut rolled in fresh spinach leaves and served on a fenugreek and spinach sauce.