Our appetite for pizza trattoria is seemingly without bounds but more ambitious ristorante are rather more rare.
The just opened Terra Marique on Edinburgh's Castle Terrace is helping to redress the balance.
Run by business partners Ilaria Torre and Fabrizio Babbucci, the new venture is on the former site of Il Castello, a veteran of Edinburgh's Italian restaurants.
Every dish on the menus at Terra Marique is handmade in the open plan kitchen and it all sounds fantastic.
This blogger would happily tuck into starters such as the roast scallops with aubergine caponata and crispy Parmesan or the black eyed-bean velouté with kale and crispy pig cheek.
From the main courses, we like the look of the roast cod with celeriac cream, lentils and 'Nduja mousse but we would be equally as happy if the costoletta alla Milanese - pan-fried veal cutlet with hand cut chips - was put in front of us.
Pasta choices include trofie with sausage, saffron and broccoli plus, on the Christmas menu, a langoustine ravioli with a seafood bisque and tarragon.
The back squid risotto could easily tempt us as could the shellfish and seafood stew from Livorno.
With six starters and eight main courses, the à la carte is reassuringly short, sharp and sweet.
A separate dessert menu lists classics such as tiramisu and panna cotta alongside a selection of Italian cheeses and, of course, ice cream.
The wines start at £23 and peak at £75 for a Brunello di Montalcino.
Pizza is conspicuous by its absence. The 5pm blog likes pizza as much as the next peckish bloke but there are plenty of Edinburgh restaurants that specialise in pizza.
Terra Marique is trying to do something different and we heartily applaud.
The blog will be back tomorrow with a look at the just opened Sugo in Glasgow.
You can browse and book a wide selection of Italian restaurants on 5pm.