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December 11, 2019

Just under a month ago, we blogged a little about Gloriosa, Rosie Healey's latest restaurant venture in Glasgow.

The Argyle Street wine bar and restaurant has now opened its doors to guests and the kitchen is making full use of the wood-fired oven, a reminder of the unit's former life as Firebird pizzeria. Main pic is from Gloriosa's Instagram.

The restaurant describes itself as a 'bright generous space with floor to ceiling windows' which serves 'vibrant Mediterranean influenced food' with 'wine from small independent European producers'.

In practice, this means dishes such as a globe artichoke served with tahini and sunflower seeds or ox cheek ragu with tagliatelle.

Diners are recommended to share dishes and eat 'family-style' although those who prefer a more trad starter, main and dessert format can easily be accommodated.

When Alchemilla opened in 2016, many commented on its extensive and clever use of vegetables. Previously, Rosie Healy had worked with Yotam Ottolenghi, the influential chef who is never shy about making plants the centre of a dish.

Clever veg, appealing meat and fish 

Gloriosa's menu features plenty of meat and fish - we'll get to them - but gives equal billing to veg, seeds, fruit and herbs.

A soup of hispi cabbage, dill and crème fraiche sounds just the ticket for a rainy December day while slow cooked San Marzano tomatoes with spaghetti and wild oregano could be a useful reminder of sunnier climes.

Other options might be the flatbread topped with lamb, potato, coriander, cumin and pomegranate molasses. Or the intriguing octopus with green olives, cilantro, golden raisins, mint and cumin.

Dessert might be a panna cotta with burnt caramel and a hazelnut biscuit or the almond cake with custard and whipped cream.

The wine bar element of the operation is as important as the food and Lily Brown will be looking after the list.

You can read her thoughts in this interview given when Lily was still at her previous job in Legs wine bar in London.

Rosie Healey puts the finishing touches to a focaccia.

Rosie Healey puts the finishing touches to a focaccia. Pic: Gloriosa Instagram.