Or rather Damm 27 is one of those places that convincingly blurs the dividing line between the two.

For years, this Causewayside building was a locals pub. As far as we are aware, it didn't serve any food apart from nuts and crisps.

It was showing its age. If memory serves, it may have lain vacant for a period. But don't quote us on that.

Fast forward to the present and enter stage right Andy McCartney. A bar operator who already runs Embargo on Byres Road in Glasgow, he re-opened the place as Damm 27 earlier this year.

Helped by a major investment from Heineken's Star Pubs and Bars arm, the place has changed beyond all recognition. Along with an artfully worn and hip interior, the new venture boasts a brand new kitchen.

Last weekend, Andy invited the blog along to try the food. Main pic shows cauliflower steak. Pic from Gram Social.

Gordal olives

So, bar or restaurant?

It is a bar? Yes. When we are in, there are three or four blokes sitting at the bar, sipping their beers and having a blether. Scattered around the bar are tables of women doing likewise with cocktails, glasses of wine or G 'n' Ts.

Good cocktail list

At a rough count, more than half the people in here are women. 'It's one of the biggest changes in the bar scene,' reckons Andy. 'If you want to attract women to your bar then make it attractive. Have a good cocktail list and a good selection of wine. Make sure your loos are as clean as they are comfortable and put nice hand lotion in them. Most guys may not bother about hand lotion in the toilets but women do.'

As it happens, I didn't road test the hand lotion in the gents but I did try the food.

And it would easily stand its own against that produced by many a dedicated restaurant.

Traditionally bar food, or pub grub, was hearty, simple and familiar. It was designed to soak up drinks, comfort the diner and not spring any surprises.

Generous portions

At Damm 27, the dishes we tried were generously portioned, carefully presented and, every now and then, they delivered a pleasant surprise: an unexpected complimentary flavour or new texture.

We ate mainly from the small (!) plates section of the main menu. There is also a burger selection, pots of mussels and separate menus for brunch and lunch. You could also swing by for a French afternoon tea or one of the weekly specials such as Tuesday's lobster night.

You can book Damm 27 via 5pm. They have some tasty dining deals running.